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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm thinking of having my drum brakes converted to Kodiak disc brakes. Should be pretty straightforward, but I'm thinking of having it done. I seem to recall someone in Monroe or Arlington, but can't remember who they were.

Any recommendations for a person or dealer to do this?

thanks
 

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I just replaced the drums on my EZ Loader with Kodiak discs yesterday. The Kodiaks are a GREAT product and the install was VERY simple.

Between the beers and BSing with my Dad,I think it took us a bit over 3 hours to get the brakes swapped out.

If we'd have set forth with getting them busted out,I'm sure we could have done it in less than 2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If it's that easy, I don't mind paying a couple hours shop time to have it done.
 

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i did mine a couple months ago
had a problum with bleading them, they would not totoly release
after checking it out --the actuator i had would not work for disk brakes, change it and works fine now

don't forget to install a backup solinoid --that means you need a five wire plug
hell if a old fart like me can do it ,

tight lines --and good luck
 

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WidgeonmanGH said:
Hunter,

Did your ezloader have the oil bath bearings?
Yes it did,and the Kodiaks do as well.

Its amazing how trashed the drums were after 2 years. I even had a washdown system installed and RELIGIOUSLY washed the brakes with freshwater every time out.
 

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Hunter P said:
I even had a washdown system installed and RELIGIOUSLY washed the brakes with freshwater every time out.
So are you saying the wash down system is just a waste of money as an extra?
 

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BIG GUY said:
Hunter P said:
I even had a washdown system installed and RELIGIOUSLY washed the brakes with freshwater every time out.
So are you saying the wash down system is just a waste of money as an extra?
If you would stop and think about if for a minute. When you dump your boat in the salt water normally you are in a hurry to go fishing (at least I am) so your trailer just sits with the salt eating away at the drum brakes all the time. When you finally get around to washing them it is to late the salt is already done its work. I sure like disc brakes you do not seem to have that issue. Yes they are easy to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So, so far, no suggestions/recommendation on someone to do this in the Seattle/north area?

I'm thinking Tuff Trailer, I've talked to them, but they are in Lynden
Maybe Taylor Brake Service on Elliot or Mann's Welding up on Aurora?

I have lots of excuses for not doing it myself....no good area to work on it, no place to put the boat so I have just the trailer to work on, I'm old, my vision blurs thinking about fish when I spend too much time not fishing but near my boat.................
 

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TrollKing said:
So, so far, no suggestions/recommendation on someone to do this in the Seattle/north area?

I'm thinking Tuff Trailer, I've talked to them, but they are in Lynden
Maybe Taylor Brake Service on Elliot or Mann's Welding up on Aurora?

I have lots of excuses for not doing it myself....no good area to work on it, no place to put the boat so I have just the trailer to work on, I'm old, my vision blurs thinking about fish when I spend too much time not fishing but near my boat.................
As basic a job as this is,I'd call Les Schwab and see what they'd charge. It really is basic. 4 bolts hold the backing plate on,and 4 bolts hold the new caliper bracket on. 2 bolts hold the caliper on. I doubt Uncle Les could screw that up.
 

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let me know if you still need someone to do this for you. I run an automotive repair shop just outside issaquah and have done work for a few of the members on this board already. Just give us a call 425-222-6501 (loranger's automotive) ask for Rik
 

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Steve, it really is a pretty straight forward affair to take the drums off and replace with Kodiak discs. The discs come pre-assembled and it's a bolt on affair. However, if your not mechanically inclined nor don't have the desire then you certainly should have it done for you.

I alway's do my own work but from what I've been told by friends, they've been happy with their brake work at Les Schwab. Whatever you do just make sure you get an estimate before they start the work.

You will be very happy with disc brakes in comparison with the drums. While your at it you should add an electric/hydraulic brake actuator and you will have the best brake system you can get for a boat trailer. With this system you have brakes at all times. Example how many times have you backed down a steep boat ramp with no trailer brakes as your typical surge brakes don't work in reverse. I've had lots of boat trailers with your typical hydraulic surge system and was never very happy with that system. The system I'm talking about here is hands down the best brake system I've ever encountered for a boat trailer. When I apply the brakes I can actually feel the trailer pulling on my truck and slowing it down. Here's a link for more info on the system I have on my Shorlandr trailer.

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm ... goryID=309
 

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Wash down systems are a joke and a waste of money. .02 Last year right before vacation, I had one of the brakes on the trailer lock up. I broke it free (moving forward and backwards) They had to replace the whole back plate etc. It was a mess and almost cost 2 days of vacation. I will not service these drum brakes again but will replace them when I have the opportunity. My other goal is to also replace the drum brakes on the back of my tow vehicle for the same reason.

Upon doing that, the best system I have heard of for long term protection is to get a fertilizer sprayer (little hand held job) and put saltaway in it and after you launch and after you pick up spray down your disk breaks. Not much to carry (I am thinking of attaching it to my trailer) and will preserve the life of the breaks and gear surrounding them.

Where are you getting the Kodiak kit?
 

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You might try Glenn's welding in Lynnwood. They off of 164th St. I'm not sure they do trailer brakes, but they've done some other trailer work for me including a swing tongue. I know they work on transmissions as well. If they can't do it, they'll tell you.
Craig
 

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trollking,when you get a price would you pass it on.hunter p,what was the cost for brakes themselves. i have been thinkin along the same routes as this.after having to teardown a stuck brake in the bc ferry yard last year,no fun. thanks mic
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mics,
Nice to hear from you.

I've got a lot of feelers out, and am expecting callbacks from Carnai (used to be Calkins), Kodiak brakes, and others. Folks seem to be telling me 2-3 hours for the job ($75 to $95 per hour) plus parts. May require a new surge actuator ($150 or so), new brake lines ($90). Other than that, the brakes themselves are around $150 per axle.

Here's a group question. Do I get a "slip on" rotor or an "integral" rotor?
 

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TrollKing said:
Mics,
Nice to hear from you.

I've got a lot of feelers out, and am expecting callbacks from Carnai (used to be Calkins), Kodiak brakes, and others. Folks seem to be telling me 2-3 hours for the job ($75 to $95 per hour) plus parts. May require a new surge actuator ($150 or so), new brake lines ($90). Other than that, the brakes themselves are around $150 per axle.

Here's a group question. Do I get a "slip on" rotor or an "integral" rotor?
I went with the integral rotor. The guys at Kodiak said the chances of getting runout on the slip on rotors was much greater.

The drum actuator can be modified to work with discs. There is a check valve in the master cylinder that needs to be removed. Drum brakes need 10-12psi on them to make them engage faster. The check valve keeps the fluid under pressure. Discs will overheat if the check valve isn't removed.

Some check valves are rubber and can be punctured with an ice pick. Mine was plastic so I had to remove it.
 

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mics said:
trollking,when you get a price would you pass it on.hunter p,what was the cost for brakes themselves. i have been thinkin along the same routes as this.after having to teardown a stuck brake in the bc ferry yard last year,no fun. thanks mic
I didn't go with the complete SS system. I went with Silver Cadmium rotors and SS calipers. The guys at Kodiak talked me out of the SS rotors. The SS rotors are much harder than the S-Cad and if they need to be turned at a later date they don't turn as well. The S-Cad has about 80% of the corrosion resistance of SS but are about half the price. The guys at Kodiak figuered I'd get 5-6 years out of the S-Cad and maybe an extra year out of SS.

I ordered mine from SW Wheel in Dallas. I had to buy 4 disc sets (tandem axle) and wanted the oil bath hubs again. IIRC it was right about $550 shipped. Shipping was a considerable amount as the disc sets weight like 40lbs a set.

Replacing the drums with galvanized drums again would have cost $300. If I can only go 2 years with drums and its $300 each time,I'm money ahead going with the discs.
 
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