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Anyone know who does detailing/paint on Aluminum Boats, I'd like to get it sanded in some spots and buffed, then a new stripe painted on?
Thanks
-Rory
Thanks
-Rory
Who does detailing/paint on Aluminum Boats?
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Nobody has had their Aluminum boat buffed or painted?
OK, how hard would it be to do it myself? What type paint to use? What's a good buffing pad/sander that I could use on my drill?
OK, how hard would it be to do it myself? What type paint to use? What's a good buffing pad/sander that I could use on my drill?
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Thanks, I look forward to hearing what you find out.ontheedge said:
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How does that work?mitch said:
Ditto! I think ill have mine done this summer! NOT by me though!SportJet said:Rory - before the sharkhide I did mine and it took me 3 days of blood, sweat and tears in the garage at night after work. all told I bet it was at least 9 hours. Whatever a detailer charges ... worth every penny. I wont do it myself again.
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Chuck, what did you use to do the work, and how much of the boat did you do?SportJet said:Rory - before the sharkhide I did mine and it took me 3 days of blood, sweat and tears in the garage at night after work. all told I bet it was at least 9 hours. Whatever a detailer charges ... worth every penny. I wont do it myself again.
Rory, I have experience sanding and painting aircraft. If you decide to do it yourself be sure to use at least 220 grit or higher, it will take a while but will look good. If you have any questions or need a hand I would be willing to help you. Good luck.
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Thanks, someone said to start with 1000 and then finish with 2000? My neighbor has a belt sander, I hope it'll work....gator_79 said:
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You may be hard pressed to find the proper grits for a belt sander. They are usually intended to remove large amounts of wood.
Try looking for a block sander and do it by hand or possibly an air or electric orbital sander. Automotive paint suppliers should have everything you would need including the proper zinc oxide primer intended for aluminum.
Try looking for a block sander and do it by hand or possibly an air or electric orbital sander. Automotive paint suppliers should have everything you would need including the proper zinc oxide primer intended for aluminum.
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Yeah....don't use a belt sander Rory, you'll likely gouge the crap out of your boat with it. Use an orbital if you need something more than hand sanding, but for the stripe your size I'd just block it out by hand. With 1000 or 2000 grit paper, you'll be great if you just want to color sand and polish your existing paint, but to paint over it that won't be enough "tooth" for the new paint to stick to.
Start with 320grit and finish with 400 or 600. I usually finish with 400 if I'm painting 3 coats. Use wet/dry paper and you'll want to sand it wet. Either dunk your block in a bucket of water and keep the surface wet, or use a spray bottle to spray the surface. The water keeps the paper from building up with paint and help the sandpaper slide across the surface. You will get green "paste" when you sand, that is fine - wash it off when you are done. Any chips in the paint sand them out to where you can't feel the edge of them, it will look like a soft circle about the size of a nickel when you are done. If you use just a rubber sanding block, you can get it sanded down in an afternoon. Sand evenly, and be thorough. Sand in one direction only, if by hand, otherwise you will see it under the paint. If by orbital sander, have a nut and finish with the 600grit. When you finish and wash off the "paste" and dry it off with a towel, it should look like flat green paint - no shiney spots anywhere. Then wipe 'er down with some pre-wash to clean off any oils and spray 'er with some new paint. No problem!
Start with 320grit and finish with 400 or 600. I usually finish with 400 if I'm painting 3 coats. Use wet/dry paper and you'll want to sand it wet. Either dunk your block in a bucket of water and keep the surface wet, or use a spray bottle to spray the surface. The water keeps the paper from building up with paint and help the sandpaper slide across the surface. You will get green "paste" when you sand, that is fine - wash it off when you are done. Any chips in the paint sand them out to where you can't feel the edge of them, it will look like a soft circle about the size of a nickel when you are done. If you use just a rubber sanding block, you can get it sanded down in an afternoon. Sand evenly, and be thorough. Sand in one direction only, if by hand, otherwise you will see it under the paint. If by orbital sander, have a nut and finish with the 600grit. When you finish and wash off the "paste" and dry it off with a towel, it should look like flat green paint - no shiney spots anywhere. Then wipe 'er down with some pre-wash to clean off any oils and spray 'er with some new paint. No problem!
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Thanks for the heads up guys, Steve, sounds like you've done this before
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Hmm...uh, yeah.....few times!!
Don't Æ’orget to mask off the bare aluminum below the stripe you don't want to paint so you don't scratch it up while sanding.
Don't Æ’orget to mask off the bare aluminum below the stripe you don't want to paint so you don't scratch it up while sanding.
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