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In respone to a previous post on the topic of pipe jigs, I thought I'd add some info and pics that I did on this board a couple of years ago. This time with a little better explanation about pipe jigs.

Let me be clear. These are not high-production lures. They will be outfished, numbers-wise, by herring or other natural baits. Even by plastics like berkley power grubs and B2 squids most of the time. In my deep water (50 fathoms plus) bottomfishing, these serve as big fish lures over structure were large populations of both halibut and lingcod exsist. There was a time that I targeted yelloweye and boccacio down there with these too. I'm not suggesting that you use these to "search" for halibut during the upcomming eastern straits opener next month. Or off the Oregon coast where it seems that they are relatively far and few between and sented baits are a must. In my experiece there are NOT spots were "large" populations exsist during the season, in these locals. Certain places off of the WCVI and the central and northern WA coast are.

How I make a pipe jig is based on this. Big bottomfish, and deepwater.

-It starts with 3/4" copper pipe cut in either 9.5" or 12.5" sections. (A 9.5" section of lead-filled copper pipe weighs less than 1000 grams making it legal for use in Canadian waters. The 12.5" is reserved for the deep water spots on the US side, when required. Weighs just under 3lbs)

-One end is then pinched on one end of each pipe.

-A 3/16" hole is at this point drilled into each flat end.



-Then these pipes are filled with lead (with all the proper saftey percautions taken).



Once filled and cooled to touch, add a large ss split ring (size 12 or so) and an ss barrel swivel (1/0-3/0) to the hole in the flat end.



Then take another large split ring and attach one of those lare barrel swivels and a large treble hook (12/0-14/0) to it. Once the business end is put together, you should use it as a measuring stick to where to affix it you your pipe. HAVE ENOUGH LARGE (3/16") STAINLESS COTTER PINS ON HAND. These will be used to attach the business end to the pipe.



With a drill press, a 3/16" hole is drilled throught the side of the pipe so that the treble lays above the bottom of the pipe when held vertically. This is done to minimize hang ups on botton and to preserve these particularly expensive hooks.

The finished product should look like this (make sure to completely flatten the cotter pin ends against cylinder of the pipe. Hammer might be necessary).



THE SWIVEL BETWEEN THE HOOK AND THE COTTER PIN IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. The LC's especially will twist the cotter pin right out of the side of the jig with out. Obviously so will a quality-sized halibut.

Why do I feel that these are so effective? Well here's an example.

You find yourself over a piece of structure were small halibut are prolific. Any lure/bait you drop to the bottom is immediately grabbed, and thus hooked. In WA (and now in Canada before June) the daily limit of halibut in 1. And if I'm going to spend the money and time to travel to one of these prolific spots, I'm going to target the quality fish that are present. And if my 14/0 hook actually sticks a small halibut, I have no problem releasing that fish, dulling the hook points, and sending it back down in search of the fish I'm looking for. Is a hook adorned with a piece of bait you choice in this circumstance? This is situation that a pipe with an oversized hook shines.

Dull hooks? Yea right!. But seriously, I don't use pipe jigs to hook every fish that comes along. And I've noticed with dull hooks, light-weigh fish such as little halibut don't usually stick. The heavy ones do! In 300+ feet of water, that's a good thing. If I'm gonna crank something up from that depth, I'd prefer it to be a good one.

The reason I'm not using two small trebles like the one usually adorned to commercially-made pipe jigs you'll find in the the marine/sporting good store, is because I'm not trying to pull two trebles out of a live hardy fish that I intend to release. I don't a use a single hook because the hook up rate of the fish is poor with these lures. The reasoning behind the single extra big dull trebles is that smaller (and sometimes prevelant) bottom fish attack these things. Even they can't resist the dissimilar metal effect that is broadcasted from these lead-filled copper pipes. (steel and aluminum filled pipes will get out fished by a copper pipe) Apparently, these dumb bottomfish bite batteries (among other obscure things dangled from a fishing rod over the right real-estate). And the big single treble usually keeps unwanted fish from finding themselves attached to these pipe jigs. You know your fishing the right spot if you miss a bite, but you're confident that you'll get another grab with in moments.

Again, Imo, pipe jigs are not intended to hook every fish that comes along. Only the ones that you want to bring back as groceries.
 

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That is awesome, buddy. Thanks for posting that. This is an instant classic. I would like to try my hand at making my own. A couple questions:
Where did you get the lead pouring supplies to do this (lead, heating and pouring pot, pipe)?
What kind of burner did you use to heat the lead up?
What is the time and temp needed (as far as your best guess) to get the lead in the liquid state?

Are you going to be able to make it up to Neah Bay a few times this summer? What are your weekends looking like? Just remember...Westport tuna in August (I just bought Taco outriggers).

We can discuss next weekend.

Thanks again John! I hope all is well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tommy. If your going to be at the SnoKing PSA meeting tonight, I'll see ya there.

In the past, I've just used a cast iron ladle with a tapered pouring tip or and iron skillet over an outdoor propane cooker/crab cookers. It doesn't take long to liquefy lead. Just don't hold your face over the pipes as you poor. Were a mask. And do not have the pipes in wet sand. Dry sand only.
 

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Man! John, at the price Copper is bringing nowdays your'e sitting on a Gold Mine. I think I'll stick to Herring. wink:

"TRAPPER"
 

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Great post JD! I can vouch for the swivel being essential between the hook and the pipe jig. I neglected to put a swivel on the ones I had and paid for it. I was reeling up a monster of a fish, then it goes slack. Reeled up and the split ring was twisted and mangled.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
THE TRAPPER said:
Man! John, at the price Copper is bringing nowdays your'e sitting on a Gold Mine. I think I'll stick to Herring. wink:

"TRAPPER"
copper definitely getting ridiculous for sure. And so is herring a 6 bucks for a pack of black? At least the copper sheds barksharks and is re-usable.
 

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Man, that's an outstanding post, J.D. Everything you say is right on the money. Very well done clap: !
 

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I prefer jigs for fishing deep water. If I get a bite that doesn't stick with bait I have to reel up and rebait or at the least check to see if the bait is gone. With a jig I can just keep on fishing.
 

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Hey John...How long does it take the lead to solidify after you pour the lead. Mike showed me his pipe jig last night. He has the bent metal loop at the top. I am assuming he pours the lead and then quickly puts that bent metal piece in there? Do you ever pour them that way?
 

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Thanks JD! That's the post I was thinking of, just couldn't remember who did it. That's a great how to article and fantastic pictures!
 

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Hi, John. this is one of the best posts EVER on this fantastic website!!! I think you do a better job of sharing useful information than just about anyone else out there!

Keep up the great work!!
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #17
3RiversBasser said:
JD,
That must be your girlfriends rod your holding in that picture, because if I'm not mistaken that's an electric reel.... Surely you would never use soemthing like that....
Actually Jordan, I borrowed it out of your bass arsenel. I bet you thought that rig looked familiar ehh? Morevac told me not to tell you, but I guess now the cat's out of the bag. I put it back just as I found it. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Bugging.., you find that type of gear at http://www.seamar.com
 

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Swede
You can use the sinker ingots or cannon ball for the lead. (cleanest way) Or buy a some pliars for wheel weights and go junk yarding (most scrap yards make you take the tires and wheels so this way might not be much use) tire stores (the local les shwab store sells them to a local scraper for $18 for a coffee can full)
 

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its getting close to that time of year again and saw this was brought up on another site, so way up to the top!
 
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